Welcome to Climb Sicily.
The development of San Vito Lo Capo has been possible only with the private finance of the first ascencionists and assistance from
This is not a definitive site for Sicily, for this see www.freeclimbingsicily.it, rather a place for information useful to foreign climbers thinking of visiting the area of San Vito lo Capo.
The climbing guide to Sicily is Di Roccia Di Sole, Massimo Cappuccio & Guiseppe Gallo. Edizioni Versante Sud. (English/Italian). This is currently sold out but a new edition is promised for this summer.
Over Easter 2006 four of us, myself, my brother Scott Titt with Joseph and Maria Gstoettenmayr from Austria, visited San Vito lo Capo in the north west of Sicily to put up some new sport routes. After two weeks work cleaning and around 600 bolts this is the result, over 50 fabulous middle grade routes on perfect if sometimes rather sharp rock in an idyllic location, this is one of the best sport climbing cliffs any of us have seen and we have hardly scratched the surface with another 3 or four kilometers to go.
Excellent access, shaded parking at the foot of the cliff, routes to 35m, nextdoor campsite, by the sea, shaded until midday, cheap apartments nearby, close to town with great restaurants and beach and more climbing on the surrounding cliffs with single and multi pitch up to 400m long.
All this an hours drive from Palermo airport, served from the U.K. by Ryanair or from Germany by Hapag Lloyd Express.
What more do you need?
NEWS 2007
Again we visited San Vito and the cliff echoed with the chatter of drills, another 27 new routes being the result. I have added these to the old topo´s until I have time to re-do them all properly but as usual the names are painted at the start so you will find no difficulty.
We have now bolted right up to the campsite fence so the first two topos are from there rightwards . This area, especially the big wall has some fantastic climbing on it and sometimes surprisingly amenable. Check out the picture below of Scott´s amazing Just for Fun in the big cave, just looking at it anyone would give it 7b but it really is 4c!
News 2008
A summer holiday with my family in September 2007 (and drill of course) saw a few new routes put up, mainly under the Torre Isulidda and I started up a BIG new cliff near Custonacci (Never Sleeping Wall) but the beach and afternoon temperatures restricted my work, especially as most where ground-up solo´s. However I managed to bag a potential classic of the cliff ;- The Celestial Way Of The Dead Cow 4c+ in the cave under Torre Isulidda.
However Easter 2008 saw the Bolt Products New Route Tour in full swing with a strong if somewhat ageing team assembled at San Vito.
The usual suspects, yours truly (Jim Titt), Scott Titt, and Joseph Gstoettenmayr where reinforced by Karsten Oelze, another veteran bolter from the Frankenjura and later the team was aumented by Daniel Arena and three Czech´s;- Jan Smolen, Mirto Monaco and Lucaz. On the climbing side we had Maria Gstoettenmayr, Barbara Hertner, Alan Rubin and Kurt from the U.S.A, Dave Elmore and Roger Hill. The result is more than 55 new routes up to 8a.
Karsten, Bärbel (Barbara), myself and Ramin the dog drove down from Germany, taking an overnight ferry from Naples to Palermo, laden with 800 bolts, 6 ropes, 36 tubes of glue and all the other junk one needs. The drive there was o.k but coming home was a long drag!
As usual we stayed at El Bahira, in three bungalows, handy for Scott who then proceeded to bolt the cliff directly behind them, a convenient 50m walk! The mass invasion of Italian motorhomes on the Saturday was great entertainment though the combined grilling efforts on the Sunday left a lot to be desired, in particular gas masks!
And some photo´s
Josef Gstoettenmayr on Just For Fun
Here are some fantastic new cliffs for next year, all as usual for us right by the road and with a cheap bar nearby, these are our criteria for a
good cliff! Here are some pictures as a taster.
We visited this cliff this year with a plan but it was full of nesting birds so will have to wait
Never Sleeping Wall, Scurati.
I started up this cliff in the summer and the Czechs have put up two lines here as well, one is a 60m 7c. More details soon.
Sadly I don´t think they will let us climb on this one, the living museum at Scurati.
Or this one in the Zingaro National Park.
Norbert Reizelsdorfer on The Wish 7c+, a stunning new line bolted by Josef Gstoettenmayr.
Karsten Oelze on Stargate, 7c, Torre Isulidda
Climber on Per Nostre Amici, 6a+, sector Campeggio
Daniel arena on the thin starting moves of Green Spiders, 6a+, sector Campeggio
Karsten Oelze on Too Scared For Trad. 7c, sector Torre Isulidda
Pilar, 6c, sector Campeggio
Daniel Arena pulling tufa on Fun To Funky, 6b, sector Campeggio.
And to prove I exist, bolting Papa´s Project, sector Torre Isulidda.
And after a hard day at the office!
and Samuel enjoying the beach in the summer!
Bärbell on Bolt Products. 6c+. Torre Isulidda
And on Papa´s Work. 6a. Torre Isulidda
Scott on the same route
Karsten Oelze bolting in Grotte die Ramin.
And some gear!
Myself on Tower Piller. 6a. Torre Isulidda.
Unknown climber on L´uomo Delle Caverne. 7c. sector Campeggio
Climbing Info.
All routes are generously bolted with glued-in or bolt-in stainless bolts and nearly all are fitted with easy-use lower-off´s to save threading. All routes can be climbed with a 60m rope, a few routes continue higher and have a second belay point (shown on topo). If the routes are longer this is indicated and we always provide an intermediate lower-off so a 60m rope will do. Joseph forgot to do a bolt count but no more than 14 quickdraws are needed. Names painted at start of most routes.
I still don´t have info for the routes at sector Bunker on the 60m overhanging wall right of the easy routes from myself but they are on the www.freeclimbingsicily.it website along with details of some other routes in the area . Additionally at this sector there is a cave further right with some more routes.
There are many more routes in the area, at the eastern end of the beach at San Vito is Monte Monaco with about 40 routes, mostly single pitch but with a number of longer routes up to 400m long, see the guidebook or website for details, another cliff nearby is Scopello with 13 sport routes and some good potential on the nearby sea cliffs. There are also a few trad routes from earlier days and I´ll try to get some translations of the descriptions though my information is that they are less than informative!
Climbing gear. I will try to get the adress of the nearest gear shop and post it here, take good boots, the rock is fresh and sharp!
New Routing. There is massive potential in the area and new routes are possible almost everywhere, for new routes on the Scogliera di Salinella; access is easy, take the road towards San Vito and after the hill up from Macari there is a pull-in on the right just past a yellow advertising sign and a gateway opposite. Through this and walk towards a small building and two car wrecks, this is the top of the quarry. Alternatively the easiest route to the top is Way Of Light in the back of the cave.There are plentiful threads at the top of the cliff for belays, a short, expendable rigging rope is useful for these.
We had problems carrying the bolting glue on the aeroplane as it contains an oxidising agent, you can send it by post (try the webmaster at freeclimbingsicily for a receiving adress) or source it locally, the only supplier we found was Würth in Palermo but you need a trade account for this, maybe someone can help with another source?
The rock on the cliff edge can be very sharp and a rope protector is desirable, in the quarry you can find lengths of slit plastic pipe ideal for the job.
Some lines on the cliff where previously climbed in the 80´s and old bolts, pitons and threads may be found, the route info was not published and the local climbers have decided these lines may be bolted. About a third of the way along the cliff from the north is a fenced-in cave with a few bolt routes, this has been excavated by archeologists and should be left unbolted, there is plenty more rock!
For general info on climbing in Sicily look at www.freeclimbingsicily.it and if needed contact the webmasters Fabio Valentino/ Ignazio Mannarano who are very helpful and keen to get more interest from foriegn climbers.
General Info.
The town of San Vito lo Capo (www.sanvitoweb.com) is a summer tourist town best known for it´s beach and the cous-cous festival in September, architecturally nothing to write home about but nice enough (sort of Mexico!). The advantage for climbers are the plentiful restaurants and bars, two large campsites and hundreds of villas and apartments to rent.Mostly Easter and Whitsun are low season and cheap, for example we stayed one year at at Villa Margherita in Macari (see map) at Easter for a total of €665 for four for two weeks.The best website for villas and apartments seems to be www.volcanoconsult.it. For campers there is a site to the east of the town under the large cliffs there (www.campinglapineta.it) and another next to sector Campeggio (www.elbahira.it) both with bungalows to rent.
We strongly recommend you stay at El Bahira, the owner is happy to see climbers, it is clean and well tended, right by the cliffs and most important, they allow us to bolt their cliffs! While their website says they are not open until Easter they will open the bungalows by arrangement, these have one double room, two bunk beds and a pullout sofa/bed as well as shower, W.C. etc. T.V, cooking facilities and aircon. Perfect.
Wild camping is tolerated and the ideal spot is below sector Campeggio in a deserted campsite with trees for shade (no water).
Transport.We had the ubiquitous HolidayAutos hire car, it is possible to go by bus from the airport to Trapani and then to San Vito, car/bike hire in San Vito.
Shopping. Best supermarket (SISA) is just after the petrol stations on the left coming into town but hard to spot. Bakers up a side street on the left at the start of the town. Sign on the main street saying "Pane di Fragranzia" (or similar!)
Climbing Accidents. Tel +39 3349510149. Club Alpino Italiano- Sicily, they operate the mounrain rescue and are available 24hrs (English speaking).
Medical Treatment. Tel 118 for the emergency services. Free at the Guardia Medica medical centre (left at the supermarket). No English! Otherwise main hospital at Trapani.
Weather.Very variable with plenty of wind from every direction, the weather seems to change every 6 hours but always o.k to climb with only one day with a few showers on both our visits at Easter and Whitsun. Going to be hot in high summer but the cliff is west facing so shaded until 1 or 2 pm.
Eating out. Fish, cous-cous, pizza, Moretti beer!( The food in Sicily is often spicy due to the Moorish influence).
Travel.
Direct flights from the U.K. to Palermo with Ryanair, from Germany with HLX. also to Catania. Some charter flights fly into Birgi near Trapani from Ireland as well as Ryanair. Naturally Alitalia fly to Palermo and this is what Scott uses from the u.k.
By car. The advice from the Italians was to come by ferry from Genoa or Livorno to Palermo and save a day or two´s driving. Don´t forget the island is big and from one side to the other is 5 or 6 hours drive. We have driven to Naples and taken the ferry to Palermo overnight.
General view of half the cliff, the end nearest is around 45m high, at sector Bunker 60m.
The cave at the southern end of the cliff and the ideal parking spot.
Right hand end of sector Campeggio with the cave entrance to the right.
Daniele Arena bolting inside the cave.
Topo´s
(from L to R facing cliff)
The topo´s have been changed for this year, they are now individual A4 graphics which you can copy to a file and print out, with most browsers it is only nescessary to righ click them and print. The route lines are in white which comes out better if you are printing in black and white.
Sector El Bahira
This sector is directly behind the campsite, please remember where you are when climbing here and if you are not staying at the campsite then have the courtesy to ask permission!
Sector Campeggio.
Access.Driving along the road "Campeggio El Bahira", take the third gravel track to the right towards a group of trees, the turning is a bit hard to see as it is on a right hand bend but is at a yellow sign for the campsite saying 100m.
Sector Scomparto dei rifiuta
Access: Take the second dirt track as you drive towards El Bahira and then left at the T to under the cliff.
Sector Torre Isulidda
The sector under the tower. Some great easier routes and some not so easy!
Access. Take the dirt road after the entrance arch and park below the tower.
And here´s a photo topo that is very strange and a sketch to help!
Sector Moretti
This is a lower grey (12m) buttress standing out from the main cliff with some shorter, easier routes, still a bit sharp!
Access: After passing through the entrance arch park on the right side at the start of a dirt track, walk up the small path for ca 50m then back up right to the butress.
Sectror Portella delle vacche
Access: As the next sector, Bunker. The routes are on your left as you descend or walk from the campsite.
Sector Bunker.
The main interest here are the hard routes on the leaning wall and in the cave nearby. We did a few easy routes as it was the first day and very hot! If I get details of the other routes I will add them.
Access. Either drive towards San Vito and take a dirt road left before the first buildings in San Vito, through a farmyard and continue until you come to a tarred road. Park here and walk down the quarry track and follow this to the foot of the sector. The track is only suitable for 4WD!
Alternatively walk along from sector Campeggio around the campsite on the shore and continue to join this track. Walk in is about the same either way.
1- Climb Easy. 4. 25m. 8 bolts. J.L.Titt.
2- Red Arete. 5c. 5 bolts. J.L.Titt.
3- Right Wall. 6a. 6 bolts J.L.Titt.
4- Travajo Domenica. 5c. 30m. J. Gstoettenmayr. (About 50m left past the buttress).
