Welcome to Climb Sicily.
The development of San Vito Lo Capo has been possible only with the private finance of the first ascencionists and assistance from
This is not a definitive site for Sicily, for this see www.freeclimbingsicily.it, rather a place for information useful to foreign climbers thinking of visiting the area of San Vito lo Capo.
The climbing guide to Sicily is Di Roccia Di Sole, Massimo Cappuccio & Guiseppe Gallo. Edizioni Versante Sud. (English/Italian). This is currently sold out but a new edition is promised for this summer.
As often happens this has not occured but I am assured it is going to the printers VERY soon (Oct 2008).
Over Easter 2006 four of us, myself, my brother Scott Titt with Joseph and Maria Gstoettenmayr from Austria, visited San Vito lo Capo in the north west of Sicily to put up some new sport routes. After two weeks work cleaning and around 600 bolts this is the result, over 50 fabulous middle grade routes on perfect if sometimes rather sharp rock in an idyllic location, this is one of the best sport climbing cliffs any of us have seen and we have hardly scratched the surface with another 3 or four kilometers to go.
Excellent access, shaded parking at the foot of the cliff, routes to 35m, nextdoor campsite, by the sea, shaded until midday, cheap apartments nearby, close to town with great restaurants and beach and more climbing on the surrounding cliffs with single and multi pitch up to 400m long.
All this an hours drive from Palermo airport, served from the U.K. by Ryanair or from Germany by Hapag Lloyd Express.
What more do you need?
Again we visited San Vito and the cliff echoed with the chatter of drills, another 27 new routes being the result. I have added these to the old topo´s until I have time to re-do them all properly but as usual the names are painted at the start so you will find no difficulty.
We have now bolted right up to the campsite fence so the first two topos are from there rightwards . This area, especially the big wall has some fantastic climbing on it and sometimes surprisingly amenable. Check out the picture below of Scott´s amazing Just for Fun in the big cave, just looking at it anyone would give it 7b but it really is 4c!
A summer holiday with my family in September 2007 (and drill of course) saw a few new routes put up, mainly under the Torre Isulidda and I started up a BIG new cliff near Custonacci (Never Sleeping Wall) but the beach and afternoon temperatures restricted my work, especially as most where ground-up solo´s. However I managed to bag a potential classic of the cliff ;- The Celestial Way Of The Dead Cow 4c+ in the cave under Torre Isulidda.
However Easter 2008 saw the Bolt Products New Route Tour in full swing with a strong if somewhat ageing team assembled at San Vito.
The usual suspects, yours truly (Jim Titt), Scott Titt, and Joseph Gstoettenmayr where reinforced by Karsten Oelze, another veteran bolter from the Frankenjura and later the team was aumented by Daniel Arena and three Czech´s;- Jan Smolen, Mirto Monaco and Lucaz. On the climbing side we had Maria Gstoettenmayr, Barbara Hertner, Alan Rubin and Kurt from the U.S.A, Dave Elmore and Roger Hill. The result is more than 55 new routes up to 8a.
Karsten, Bärbel (Barbara), myself and Ramin the dog drove down from Germany, taking an overnight ferry from Naples to Palermo, laden with 800 bolts, 6 ropes, 36 tubes of glue and all the other junk one needs. The drive there was o.k but coming home was a long drag!
As usual we stayed at El Bahira, in three bungalows, handy for Scott who then proceeded to bolt the cliff directly behind them, a convenient 50m walk! The mass invasion of Italian motorhomes on the Saturday was great entertainment though the combined grilling efforts on the Sunday left a lot to be desired, in particular gas masks!
September saw me back on the cliff while my family sunned themselves, a few visiting climbers helping with the fun. The hot weather slowed things a bit but my usual quota of ten or so new routes got done,including the peapod shaped cave behind the black pipe, a fantastic route at a very reasonable 7a, yes, there are jugs at the top!
10 days in March with Karsten Oelze, Mel Holmes from England and myself saw some determined bolting in the face of some indifferent weather, a lot more gaps being filled with Karstens usual 7c to 8b stuff. Highlight was the expedition into sector Lost World, under the antennae mountain. Some truly massive tufa here which we have started bolting. Access is poor at the moment and climbing out over the left hand end turned out to be a harrowing experience- E12 comes to Sicily!
Easter came along and this year we assembled an even stronger team with Lukas Matasovsky from Austria, Barbra Hertner and top boulderer and guide author Hary Röker from Germany as well as the usual suspects. Daniele Arena and a strong Sicilian team also appeared and in usual style bolted like there was no tomorrow. The main focus of attention was the northern end of the cliff which has yielded a lot of great climbing in all grades. The new guide was in the shops two weeks before we left and we took great pleasure in making it out of date with a number of new sectors and over 100 new routes to add!
Another team from Germany arrived for Whitsun and amongst other new routes bolted the cave of Just for Fun to death, plenty of hard stuff there now!
The big news later in the year was the San Vito Rock Climbing Festival with over 500 climbers attending. Rock band, trade stands, climbing demonstrations in the town square and a climbing marathon were just part of the attractions, did I mention the free beer?
Some more nails hard routes were drilled, mainly around the pipeline area but I don´t have a topo for these yet,.
Naturally I had my drill with me and put up one new line at the Lost World but the amount of water in the rock (this was a week after the torrential floods in Sicily) stopped any further activity there. However an easier exit route up the obvious rightward sloping ramp to the left of the cave was bolted to give a reasonable way out. Scramble up to about half height and then climb out rightwards and up, ca 4+ and enough bolts for a competent climber. Bolt belay at the top. Rough topo in the new routes bit below.
I also drilled a line to the right of Green Spiders (No 26) in Salinella Camping, a great route:- Black Beetle, 6b+ 12 or so bolts. 30m.
The next week Albert Leichtfried and friends arrived and drilled some fantastic stuff including an onsight drilled route La Lingua Pura 7c 200m route on Monte Monaco N Face just left of La Collina Dei Conigli (No 44) and a lot of routes on the Never Sleeping Wall. Some harder stuff here now! Topo´s below.
The new routes are to be found about 3/4 of the way down this webpage after the older topos. They are a bit provisional for various reasons but at least 99% of the information is there!
This whole webpage is due for a re-design soon!!!
And some photo´s
Josef Gstoettenmayr on Just For Fun
Here are some fantastic new cliffs for next year, all as usual for us right by the road and with a cheap bar nearby, these are our criteria for a
good cliff! Here are some pictures as a taster.
We visited this cliff this year with a plan but it was full of nesting birds so will have to wait
Never Sleeping Wall, Scurati.
I started up this cliff in the summer and the Czechs have put up two lines here as well, one is a 60m 7c. More details soon.
Sadly I don´t think they will let us climb on this one, the living museum at Scurati.
Or this one in the Zingaro National Park.
Norbert Reizelsdorfer on The Wish 7c+, a stunning new line bolted by Josef Gstoettenmayr.
Karsten Oelze on Stargate, 7c, Torre Isulidda
Climber on Per Nostre Amici, 6a+, sector Campeggio
Daniel arena on the thin starting moves of Green Spiders, 6a+, sector Campeggio
Karsten Oelze on Too Scared For Trad. 7c, sector Torre Isulidda
Pilar, 6c, sector Campeggio
Daniel Arena pulling tufa on Fun To Funky, 6b, sector Campeggio.
And to prove I exist, bolting Papa´s Project, sector Torre Isulidda.
And after a hard day at the office!
and Samuel enjoying the beach in the summer!
Bärbell on Bolt Products. 6c+. Torre Isulidda
And on Papa´s Work. 6a. Torre Isulidda
Scott on the same route
Karsten Oelze bolting in Grotte die Ramin.
And some gear!
Myself on Tower Piller. 6a. Torre Isulidda.
Unknown climber on L´uomo Delle Caverne. 7c. sector Campeggio
BRING A 60m ROPE (at least)!
All routes are generously bolted with glued-in or bolt-in stainless bolts and nearly all are fitted with easy-use lower-off´s to save threading. All routes can be climbed with a 60m rope, a few routes continue higher and have a second belay point (shown on topo). If the routes are longer this is indicated and we always provide an intermediate lower-off so a 60m rope will do. Joseph forgot to do a bolt count but no more than 14 quickdraws are needed. Names painted at start of most routes.
I still don´t have info for the routes at sector Bunker on the 60m overhanging wall right of the easy routes from myself but they are on the www.freeclimbingsicily.it website along with details of some other routes in the area . Additionally at this sector there is a cave further right with some more routes.
There are many more routes in the area, at the eastern end of the beach at San Vito is Monte Monaco with about 40 routes, mostly single pitch but with a number of longer routes up to 400m long, see the guidebook or website for details, another cliff nearby is Scopello with 13 sport routes and some good potential on the nearby sea cliffs. There are also a few trad routes from earlier days and I´ll try to get some translations of the descriptions though my information is that they are less than informative!
Climbing gear. I will try to get the adress of the nearest gear shop and post it here, take good boots, the rock is fresh and sharp!
New Routing. There is massive potential in the area and new routes are possible almost everywhere, for new routes on the Scogliera di Salinella; access is easy, take the road towards San Vito and after the hill up from Macari there is a pull-in on the right just past a yellow advertising sign and a gateway opposite. Through this and walk towards a small building and two car wrecks, this is the top of the quarry. Alternatively the easiest route to the top is Way Of Light in the back of the cave.There are plentiful threads at the top of the cliff for belays, a short, expendable rigging rope is useful for these.
We had problems carrying the bolting glue on the aeroplane as it contains an oxidising agent, you can send it by post (try the webmaster at freeclimbingsicily for a receiving adress) or source it locally, the only supplier we found was Würth in Palermo but you need a trade account for this, maybe someone can help with another source?
The rock on the cliff edge can be very sharp and a rope protector is desirable, in the quarry you can find lengths of slit plastic pipe ideal for the job.
Some lines on the cliff where previously climbed in the 80´s and old bolts, pitons and threads may be found, the route info was not published and the local climbers have decided these lines may be bolted. About a third of the way along the cliff from the north is a fenced-in cave with a few bolt routes, this has been excavated by archeologists and should be left unbolted, there is plenty more rock!
For general info on climbing in Sicily look at www.freeclimbingsicily.it and if needed contact the webmasters Fabio Valentino/ Ignazio Mannarano who are very helpful and keen to get more interest from foriegn climbers.
The town of San Vito lo Capo (www.sanvitoweb.com) is a summer tourist town best known for it´s beach and the cous-cous festival in September, architecturally nothing to write home about but nice enough (sort of Mexico!). The advantage for climbers are the plentiful restaurants and bars, two (or more)large campsites and hundreds of villas and apartments to rent. Mostly Easter and Whitsun are low season and cheap, for example we stayed one year at at Villa Margherita in Macari (see map) at Easter for a total of €665 for four for two weeks.The best website for villas and apartments seems to be www.volcanoconsult.it. For campers there is a site to the east of the town under the large cliffs there (www.campinglapineta.it) and another next to sector Campeggio (www.elbahira.it) both with bungalows to rent and another in town which we have never used.
We strongly recommend you stay at El Bahira, the owner is happy to see climbers, it is clean and well tended, right by the cliffs and most important, they allow us to bolt their cliffs! While their website says they are not open until Easter they will happily open the bungalows by arrangement, these have one double room, two bunk beds and a pullout sofa/bed as well as shower, W.C. etc. T.V, cooking facilities and aircon. They also have large mobile homes which are ideal for two or so. Their website is http://www.elbahira.it and they speak and write English.
El Bahira is also now home to Eurocamp (a British holiday company) with a new moblie home park which means more facilities are open from Easter such as the bar and restaurant.
Most of the apartments and the camping apartments seem to assume a) its summer b) you brought loads of domestic gear! A sleeping bag or a down jacket to throw over the bed can be nice or hassle for more bedding. Generally you get sheets, pillow case and one blanket. In the kitchen it is a miniscule pan for heating milk, gigantic cauldrons for pasta and a couple of frying pans. A couple of camping pans is dead handy and a sharp knife for general preperation. And if you want more than expresso then a mug is useful!
Can get nippy evenings so a thick jacket for sitting outside in the evening by the grill is nice!
Wild camping is tolerated and the ideal spot is below sector Campeggio in a deserted campsite with trees for shade (no water) or just past Cala Mancina.
Transport.We normally have the ubiquitous HolidayAutos/AutoEurope hire car, but it is possible to go by bus from Palermo airport to Trapani and then to San Vito. (There is a direct bus but it is very infrequent). From Trapani (Birgi) airport bus to Trapani and then to San Vito, the Trapani-San Vito bus runs about 8 times a day. There is car/bike hire in San Vito and bike hire at El Bahira. In the season they also do a ferry run into town for people to go shopping etc..
Airport transfers are readily availble, see the San Vito website or ask El Bahira who can organise this.
Shopping. Best supermarket (SISA) is just after the petrol stations on the left coming into town but hard to spot, look for the trolleys outside.Closed in the afternoon but open again at 5 o´clock like all other businesses. Sell all you need including bread, meat, veg and beer.Bakers up a side street on the left as you come into the townthe town. Hard to spot sign on the main street saying "Pane di Fragranzia" (or similar). All the usual other shops, butchers etc. Guide book available in the bookshop, newsagent/tobacconist and El Bahira.
Climbing Accidents. Tel +39 3349510149. Club Alpino Italiano- Sicily, they operate the mountain rescue and are available 24hrs (English speaking).
Naturally also 118 for the police/fire etc first!
Medical Treatment. Tel 118 for the emergency services. Free medical treatment at the Guardia Medica medical centre (left at the mini roundabout coming into town). Two duty doctors with no English but do the job! Ambulance service is based here also for the main hospital at Trapani.
Weather.The best weather website seems to be http://www.ilmeteo.it in Italian but this should present no difficulties. It is extremely hot in the sunner, up to 45°C being possible as San Vito is near the Sahara but spring and autumn are ideal with day temps aroung 26°C. Around Christmas you can expect 14-18°C. You can get detailed weather statistics for any period on http://www.ilmeteo.it/portale/archivio-meteo/Sicilia. Generally when we have visited the weather has been variable with plenty of wind from every direction, the weather seems to change every 6 hours but always o.k to climb with only one day with a few showers on both our visits at Easter and Whitsun and the rest of the time bright and sunny. Going to be hot in high summer but the cliff is west facing so shaded until 1 or 2 pm.
Eating out. Fish, cous-cous, pizza, Moretti beer!( The food in Sicily is often spicy due to the Moorish influence). Ice cream, specialities are ice cream in a sweet bun and sorbets.
For the gourmets the thing to have here is the various forms of preserved tuna, smoked and then in oil. The price is amazing!
From Germany:- I normally fly with Hapag Lloyd Express which is now TUI Fly (and now Air Berlin), from Munich to Palermo. They also fly from many other German cities. Good service and useful sports luggage allowance. Naturally you can also fly with Lufthansa/Alitalia.
From the U.K:- With Ryanair daily from Stanstead to Palermo and new are flights from Birmingham and Liverpool to Birgi ( near Trapani and 66km/1hr from San Vito), Ryanair are expanding into Birgi as a southern hub so check what´s on their website. Easyjet now fly into Palermo from Gatwick on Tues, Thurs, Sat (and Sunday depending on summer or winter season), this also is changing so check their website.. Alternatively you can often get a good deal with AirFrance/Alitalia though this is a bit uncertain at the moment.
From Ireland:- Flights from Dublin to Birgi (Trapani) with Ryanair.
By car. The advice from the Italians was to come by ferry from Genoa or Livorno to Palermo and save a day or two´s driving. Don´t forget the island is big and from one side to the other is 5 or 6 hours drive. We have driven from Munich to Naples (11hrs) and taken the 10pm ferry to Palermo overnight which is convenient as you get a nights rest and then arrive at Palermo at 6am allowing a days climbing. Direct drive from Munich without stops is 23hrs.
General view of half the cliff, the end nearest is around 45m high, at sector Bunker 60m.
The cave at the southern end of the cliff and the ideal parking spot.
Right hand end of sector Campeggio with the cave entrance to the right.
Daniele Arena bolting inside the cave.
(from L to R facing cliff)
The topo´s have been changed for this year, they are now individual A4 graphics which you can copy to a file and print out, with most browsers it is only nescessary to right click them and print. The route lines are in white which comes out better if you are printing in black and white.
Route credit is generally a bolt credit first, if no first ascent credit is given (F.A.) then the both are due to the same person or we don´t have any more details! If you have been left out or feel hard done by then send me the correct information!
Sector El Bahira
This sector is directly behind the campsite, please remember where you are when climbing here and if you are not staying at the campsite then have the courtesy to ask permission!
Access.Driving along the road "Campeggio El Bahira", take the third gravel track to the right towards a group of trees, the turning is a bit hard to see as it is on a right hand bend but is at a yellow sign for the campsite saying 100m.
Sector Scomparto dei rifiuta
Access: Take the second dirt track as you drive towards El Bahira and then left at the T to under the cliff.
Sector Torre Isulidda
The sector under the tower. Some great easier routes and some not so easy!
Access. Take the dirt road after the entrance arch and park below the tower.
And here´s a photo topo that is very strange and a sketch to help!
This is a lower grey (12m) buttress standing out from the main cliff with some shorter, easier routes, still a bit sharp!
Access: After passing through the entrance arch park on the right side at the start of a dirt track, walk up the small path for ca 50m then back up right to the butress.
Sectror Portella delle vacche
Access: As the next sector, Bunker. The routes are on your left as you descend or walk from the campsite.
The main interest here are the hard routes on the leaning wall and in the cave nearby. We did a few easy routes as it was the first day and very hot! If I get details of the other routes I will add them.
Access. Either drive towards San Vito and take a dirt road left before the first buildings in San Vito, through a farmyard and continue until you come to a tarred road. Park here and walk down the quarry track and follow this to the foot of the sector. The track is only suitable for 4WD!
Alternatively walk along from sector Campeggio around the campsite on the shore and continue to join this track. Walk in is about the same either way.
1- Climb Easy. 4. 25m. 8 bolts. J.L.Titt.
2- Red Arete. 5c. 5 bolts. J.L.Titt.
3- Right Wall. 6a. 6 bolts J.L.Titt.
4- Travajo Domenica. 5c. 30m. J. Gstoettenmayr. (About 50m left past the buttress).
NEW ROUTES NOT IN GUIDE (2009)
Monte Monaco North Face
To the left of La Collina Dei Conigli (route 44 in the guide) is La Lingua Pura
San Vito lo Capo-Scogliera di Salinella
To visit the sectors Calamancina, Fakirella Beach and Grotta del Cavallo you should
approach from the northern end unless you want to walk from El Bahira which takes approx 11/2
hrs. To get to the north end drive into San Vito to the small roundabout and turn left then second
right down the wide street. At the sea this bends left and has a central division, when the road turns
to the right along the harbout the central division is broken to allow a left turn up a narrow road up
the hill. Follow this along past the rear of the cemetary and down to a left turn uphill, past this and
just where the road bends left into a development there is a dirt road right. Take this and then
immediatly left. Signpost here. Follow the road which is rough in places to the obvious only small
cove with ample parking. Unsuitable for low or big cars and campers thankfully. For Fakirella
Beach and Grotte del Cavallo continue along the dirt road for about 500m where you can park.
Good camping spot here for beach barbeques etc..
San Vito lo Capo-Scogliera di Salinella
Sector Cala Mancina
The only place along this section of the coast allowing landing from a boat this is a small
cove in the rocks with a concrete slipway and a beach about 4m wide allowing bathing access. The
water in the cove is not very deep so ideal for a cooling paddle.
The first routes are about 100m before you come to the cala at the first obvious good piece of rock,
a slightly overhanging white wall. The routes to the left of this are better than they look at first
The next group of routes are on the obvious butress with a cave and chimney system directly at the
cove and directly to the right another group of 10 shorter routes. 50m past this around the corner is
a group of 7 very pleasant shorter and easier routes, unusually for these grades being on red rock
with rounded holds so more skin kindly!
Sector Fakirella Beach
A further 250m brings you to a wall with two obvious holes which has two routes on it, whether
this is part of Calamancina or the next sector Fakirella Beach is not yet decided but I tend towards
120m after this wall is an obvious cave with steep walls either side, this is Fakirella Beach where
you come to the end of the driveable track and with a good area to camp. The beach is named for
the sharp rocks! Some long, hard routes here as well as more amenable grades.
Sector Grotta del Cavallo
From the end of the dirt track this is just visible, about 500m further along the path. A big and
impressive cave awaiting a lot more bolts!
San Vito lo Capo-Scogliera di Salinella
Sector Calamancina 1
The first routes driving towards Cala Mancina, about 100m before you come to it. Limited
parking underneath or go on to the Cala. The routes on the white leaning wall on the right are
exceptionally good. Small parking space for 1 or 2 cars.
1- Salto Nel Buio 15m 5a Augusto Rossi
2- La Caduta Degliu Dei 15m 5a Augusto Rossi
3- Attenzone 26m 6b Augusto Rossi
4- Giornata Ecologica 26m 6b Augusto Rossi
5- Topi Sfrattati 26m 6a Augusto Rossi
6- Oltre Manica 28m 6a Augusto Rossi
7- Slay Back 28m 6b Scott Titt
8- Super Santos 28m 8a Karsten Oelze
9- Stolen Glory 30m 6a Scott Titt
10- Beam Me Up Scottie 7a Karsten Oelze
San Vito lo Capo-Scogliera di Salinella
Sector Calamancina 2
Directly at the Cala, sadly the cave is not quite as good as it looks but we hope to make
something worthwhile there (bit loose and dirty). The corner to the right is either a desperate offwidth jam or an easy
(6a) bridge, the grade is for the jam!
1- No Postcard Home 25m +10m P1.5a P2.4a Scott Titt
Poor rock in the lower half, the grade is for going left of the pinnacles at half way. Direct 5c(+)
2- Road To Nowhere 25m 6a Jim Titt
3- Jammin´ In The Name Of The Lord 30m 6b+ Jim Titt
4- Fearless Boogie 30m 6a+ Jim Titt
San Vito lo Capo-Scogliera di Salinella
Sector Calamancina 3
About 50m past the large buttress and at the beach of Cala Mancina, this shorter sector has
some good routes to play on before a swim. Maximum length ca 20m.
1- Silly Games (project) 8a Karsten Oelze
2- Ritter Sport 6a+ Karsten Oelze
3- Forgefix 6b Karsten Oelze
4- Alfa Romeo 7b Karsten Oelze
5- April Skies 5c+ Jim Titt
6- Walk The Dinosaur 5a Jim Titt
7- Johnnie Walker 7a+ Karsten Oelze
8- The Riddle 7a Karsten Oelze
9- Jam or Jump 7c Karsten Oelze *Do not use the blocks
at the top of this route but move rightwards, they may not be safe. We plan to fix them to the
cliff or remove them on our next visit*
10- If Cows Had Wings 4b Jim Titt
San Vito lo Capo-Scogliera di Salinella
Sector Calamancina 4
Another 40m past the last climbs around a corner is this ideal beginners section with some
fun and not sharp shorter routes- up to 15m. Some grade corrections may be needed here!
1- Marmot 4b Jim Titt
2- Performing Seals 4b Jim Titt
3- Rabbit 4a Jim Titt
4- My Little Pony 4c Jim Titt
5- Lions, Tigers and Bears 5b Jim Titt
6- Sheep 4a Jim Titt
7- Beautiful Hamster 5a David Coley
San Vito lo Capo-Scogliera di Salinella
Sector Fakirella Beach 1
Further along the cliff ca 120m before the obvious cave is a wall with 2 holes in it, only 2 routes here at the moment. A
poor photo but the holes are obvious!
1- Debs 20m 5c Scott Titt
2- Scotty´s World 20m 6c J.Gstoettenmayr bolted by Scott Titt
San Vito lo Capo-Scogliera di Salinella
Sector Fakirella Beach 2
I don´t have full information on all these routes at this time as I am waiting for names and grades
but some of the lines are indicated. Hopefully I will get some better photos as well!
This section is a bit confusing at the moment as I cannot check the information, hopefully in
September this can all be sorted out, however when you are there it all is pretty obvious!
Routes not credited are from Daniel Arena and friends.
Routes 1 to 3 between 5b+ and 6a+ or thereabouts. J.Gstoettenmayr
4- ? 6b J.Gstoettenmayr
5 -? 6a+.J.Gstoettenmayr
6- CRUSADER 7b+ H. Röker/K. Oelze
7- Unamed 7c+ H. Röker/K. Oelze
8- IL RAGAZZO E’ PROPRIO STUPIDO 8a 30m
9 - IL MIO ENNESIMO COMPLEANO 7c 30m
10- SOPRAVVISSUTO 7c 22m
11- PASSEPARTOUT 7a 20m
12- BIANCA 6c 20m
13- NO DRILL NO PARTY 5b 22m
14-MANNARA 6a 22m
??-SCORPIONE IN LETARGO 6a 23m
15-CALZE NERE 6a+ 23m
16- MY HEAD HURTS; MY FEET STINK AND I DON´T LOVE JESUS 5b? J. Titt
17- EVIL THAT MEN DO 5c? J.Titt
18-CIMITERO DELLE LUMACHE 5b 22m
19 -DOLORES 6b 22m
20- MEZZI CRUCCHI 6a+ 20m
21- MIRACOLI 6b+ 28m
21- LADRI DI MOSCHETTONI 6b 27m
These routes are around the corner where the sector becomes:
22/1 - PALME CANE 7a+ 30m
23/2 -SGRILLETTA 6c 30m
3 LABIRINTO 6b 25m
San Vito lo Capo-Grotta Del Cavallo
Ca. 500m walk from the end of the track and the previous sector, this is a very impressive
cave with some surprisingly amenable grades and stays shaded most of the day.
I don´t have a photo-topo for this yet but I wouldn´t expect this to be a problem. Routes are
listed from left to right and the names are not written on the rock!
As far as I know routes are by Daniel Arena and friends.
1 BIRDWATCHING 7a+ 25m
2 SENZA NOME 6c 18m
3 IL DOMATORE DI CAPRE 6b+ 25m
4 GASPARE 7a 25m
5 MELCHIORRE 6b 18m
6 BALDASSARRE 6b+ 18m
7 ARABA-TTATI 7b+ 19m
8 BALU YOGHI E BUBU 7b+ 25m
9 NO BULLS NO SHIT N.L. 28m
10 BUE 6c 28m
11 ASINELLO 6b+ 28m
San Vito lo Capo-Sector Ramin
Halfway between the Cave of sector Ramin and the campsite (that is, about 100m Nof the fence for the private villas) is an obvious white slab.
This climbed by :- Monsters Versus Aliens 6a J.L.Titt and is superb!
Access this area via the beach, not over the villa fences!
San Vito lo Capo-Scogliera di Salinella
Impossible to do a meaningful topo of this part of the clifff as the base is heavily wooded, the plan below shows you the approximate locations
and access to the routes, it is easy as you can wander along the base and the names are written at the start of the routes.
The red rectangles are the bungalows with their somewhat unusual numbering order!
No complete bolt count for here but a normal rack (10 draws) will get you up as none of the routes is over 25m.
Access for the routes below by walking through the gate between bungalows 1&2 , right up the track then diagonally left above a water tank.
1-End Of Silence 7b Karsten Oelze
2-Sirocco 7b+ Karsten Oelze
3-Jaegers App 7c Karsten Oelze (F.A. G Jaeger)
4-Soundcheck 6c+ Karsten Oelze
5-Beatbox 7b+ Karsten Oelze
6-Make Some Noise 7a Karsten Oelze
7- Pizza 2+ J.L.Titt
8-Pasta 2+ J.L.Titt
9-Gelati 2+ J.L.Titt
(these routes 7,8&9 are heavily bolted for children to learn leading)
10-Foot Up 5b J.L.Titt
11-Fränkische 5b J.L.Titt
12-Destination Unknown 5c J.L.Titt
13-One Step Beyond 6a J.L.Titt (name not written on rock, L.H. route in the obvious hole)
14-I Feel Weak 7a? J.L.Titt (name not written on rock, R.H. route in the obvious hole)
Access for the routes below from bungalow 4 up diagonally right to a white wall with an obvious crack & chimney to the L.
15-Humpty Dumpty 6c S.L.Titt
16- White Rabbit 7a S.L.Titt
17- Tweedledum 6c+ S.L.Titt
18- Mad Hatter 6b S.L.Titt
19- Rabbit Hole 6c S.L.Titt
Access for the routes below up behind bungalow 5 by the water tank.
20- Delusion 6b+ S.L.Titt
21- Conclusion 5c+ S.L.Titt
22- Reserved Project S.L.Titt
23- Gehe Düschen 6g S.L.Titt
24- Solution 5a S.L.Titt
Access the routes below is a path from tent pitch 82 to the right of bungalow13, Für Sophia and Susie are 15m left of Easy Outer where the water pipe
goes through a hole in the rock, climb up to a large belay ledge
25- Für Sophia 4b S.L.Titt
26- Susie 6a S.L.Titt
27- Easy Outer 5c S.L.Titt
28- E.J.A 6a+ S.L.Titt
29- Redhead 6a+ S.L.Titt
30- Red Planet 6a S.L.Titt
31- Last Orders 6a S.L.Titt
32- JWLG 6a+ S.L.Titt
33-Windstorm 6b S.L.Titt
34- Whitewall 7a S.L.Titt (F.A. Karsten Oelze)
35- Edge 5b S.L.Titt
36- Panorama 6b Karsten Oelze
The cave of JUST FOR FUN has recieved a good session from a hard working and climbing
German team who also can make topo`s!
A) Swordfish 7a 19m Karsten Oelze
B) Just for Fun 4c 20m S.L. Titt
C) ??? 7b ?? 25m new Route, K. Oelze
D) ??? 8b ?? 25m new Route, K. Oelze
E) Seltsam anmutende Vollspacken 7b 30m Ferdinand Triller + Mariella Kast (first ascent: F.
F) Knochenmanderl 7a 28m Ferdinand Triller
G) Boandlkramer 7a 28m Ferdinand Triller
H) In Summe gelungen 6b+ 28m Ingrid Taubert
I) Cat Walk 6c+ 28m Ingrid Taubert (first ascent: F. Triller)
J) Shirtcut 6a 15m Antonia Schmid + Jelena Holzwarth (first ascent: A. Schmid)
K) ??? 6c ?? 15m new Route,K. Oelze
L) Je heißer umso scheißer 8a ?? 10m Markus Härtl (open Project...)
M) Fingerpeeling 7b+ 25m Markus Härtl
N) Pilar 6a 29m S.L. Titt
O) Chaos20 6c+ 30m Mariella Kast + Antonia Schmid( first ascent: Mariella Kast)
P) White Slab 6b+ 30m S.L. Titt
To the right of Green Spiders is Black Beetle 6b+ 12 bolts 30m J.L.Titt
To the right of Red Alert (R19)
Pochahonta’s Loveline, 8a+ 28m, Simon Unger + Felix Rampf (first ascent: Simon Unger)
and to the right again a new route climbs the obvious cave- a top class 7a called Red Peroni bolted by myself and F.A. by Steve Adams
There are some other hard routes around the pipeline at 7c and above, no info at the moment.
Extension of „Soundgarden“ to a logical finish, 12m higher up:-Soundgarden extension, 8b 30m (complete), Simon Unger
Between „Way of Light“ and „Cavemen“:- Das Totenschaf, L1: 4c 20m, L2: 5c+ 15m, Ingrid Taubert
Right of „L’Uomo delle Caverne“:-Schattenlinie, 8a 24m, Ferdinand Triller, (first ascent: Simon Unger)
Schattenkrieger, 8b?? 10m, Markus Härtl (open Project...)
Sector Torre Isulidda
To the right of Barracuda (R120) are two new routes:
King for a Day 5b J.L.Titt
Matter of Trust 5c J.L.Titt
About 30m right of Sector Moretti is one harder route (7b+???) from K. Oelze on the right wall of a
small cave and then 3 easier routes from myself up the obvious grey piller. From L to R these are
5a, 5b and 6b+ or so. There is a lower-off at half height as the upper section is very sharp and also
45m total length. Topo coming!
Right from these routes is a red wall with broken ground below- to gain the left side of this wall is
an access route Accesso 5a. This breaks out L at to climb Don Alfredo 6b+ or from the belay of
Accesso left is Josef´s Crack and Right is Don´t Disturb The Seagull 7a. (J. Gstoettenmayr)
Access to the right side of the wall is another access route with a few bolts for the faint hearted.
The routes from here from L to R are Clean Break 6c+, Break Time 6b+. 9 o´clock On The Moon
6b and Soap Opera 7c (S.L. Titt and L. Matasovsky)
Around the prominent butress marking the end of the cliff along the road (there is a new route here
but no details) there is a route up the S side overlooking the houses.
THIS IS A TRAD ROUTE AND NOT TO BE BOLTED!
Here is the original topo. Easily protected with slings (lots of threads) and possibly a few nuts
To the right of this is a shorter red wall with 2 open projects from myself on the right hand side.
Walking further up towards the road at nearly the end of the cliff there is a small bay in the rock
with a large tree and a red wall on its left. There are 10 short routes here starting at about 4c on the
right and getting harder as you move left. A very sheltered spot from both wind and sun! Topo to
come from Karsten Oelze when he remembers!
Never Sleeping Wall, Custonaci
At last a reasonable topo and plenty of routes!
Long White Night has had a repeat ascent and the bolting is described as `scary´. The same probably goes for Long White Line.
Route 7 is NOT called Tith´s Artificial but in reality it is Pioneer 6c+. I know because I put it up!
Parco Surbano `ROCCA CERRIOLO´
This is the obvious cliff on the right as you drive down to Never Sleeping Wall and looks like this;-
There are a number of routes bolted here left of the centre crack and groove in the picture however the bolting is appalling apparently using second-hand steel hangers
which are rusting extremely quickly. If anyone wishes to retro-bolt these routes to an acceptable standard they can re-name them and claim them.
Until then they will not be credited here.
They start in a bed of vicious stinging nettles as well!
To the right are some more routes, bolted by someone intelligent! Topo to come.
I don´t even know where this sector is, if you find 6 unknown routes somewhere then send me the
info and a topo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1 VARIANTE X 7a 20m
2 YPSLON 6b 20m
3 NO PEOPLE NO STRESS 6c 20m
4 LA MIA OMBRA 7a+ 20m
5 NON E’ MAI TROPPO TARDI 6c 27m
6 CUSCINO DI SUOCERA 6c 20m